by Tracy Hamilton

Sometimes we take our skin for granted.  We live in it each sleeping and waking moment.  Why do we have skin?  Why is it so important?  Is it really necessary to go a few extra steps each day just to care for our skin?  Life is hectic, so how can we set aside precious time for those few extra steps?

 Actually, it does not take long at all, to include a skin care regimen into our daily routine.  Men and women alike take time to care for their teeth, hair and nails.  We may be happy to spend time and money on expensive make-up, yet are we willing to spend a little extra on caring for our skin, especially our faces which are exposed daily to the elements?

 I believe that the benefits are definitely worth it.  I would like to share with you why I think a regular skin care regime, using the correct products, will help you reap the rewards of a healthy skin now and later in life.   My former years of experience as a nurse encouraged me to enter the beauty profession in my early forties.  I would like to share my passion for what I believe should be an important part of valuing yourself each day.

 First, I think it is important to understand the primary Functions of Skin:  remember SHAPES.

 Sensitivity to touch, temperature, pain and pressure

Heat and temperature regulation

Absorption

Protection

Excretion

Secretion

 There is also the function of Storage and the synthesis of essential Vitamin D. 

 The following factors affect our skin type and the way it ages; sunlight, extreme weather conditions, air pollutants, smoking, alcohol, genetics, diet, puberty, pregnancy, menopause, illness and medication. 

 Without boring you, I would also like to help you understand how pH of our skin can be affected by the skin care products we use.  A normal skin is mildly acidic and has a pH of 5.5 to 5.6.  Extremely oily to mildly oily skin has a lower pH of 4 to 5.4 which is more acidic, whilst a dry to very dry skin has a much weaker acid pH of 5.7 to 6.

 Without becoming too technical, this acid pH is vital in helping to protect our skin against breakouts (those dreaded spots and blackheads) and infection.  Choosing the wrong product for your skin can wreak havoc which is why it is important to get your skin care routine right.

Your Skin Care Routine

How many times have you heard the words ‘cleanse, tone and moisturize’?  This simple routine honestly does not have to take long at all and you deserve this little time out for yourself.  In the morning it refreshes your skin for the day and helps to prepare it for your make-up.  In the evening before bedtime, it cleanses and prepares your skin for when you sleep, as this is when your body is at rest, thus allowing your skin care products to work their magic.  Yes it is true.

 Before painting or papering, a decorator will prepare the wall.  He will sand down and smooth the plaster and ensure that all rough edges are removed and tidied.  If you imagine your face as a blank artist’s canvas, you want this canvas to be thoroughly prepared i.e. fresh, clean and smooth.

Cleansing

Cleansing removes dirt, bacteria, dead skin cells and make-up.  You will be amazed how much environmental pollution can build up on your face in the course of day!  A good facial cleanser will effectively remove make-up without causing irritation.

 As tempting as it may be, don’t go to bed with your make-up on. Your foundation ends up smeared into your pillow and your mascara ends up in your eyes… ouch!  Quick wipes can be very handy for ultra fast removal of make-up, however, I don’t recommend these as a regular daily option.  

 Eyes:  Begin by removing all traces of eye make-up.   There are many products specifically designed for removing eye make-up.  The eyes and surrounding skin are delicate and sensitive areas.  There are smaller and fewer pores in this area and they are therefore, not able to absorb products as in other areas of your face.   Incorrect use of products around your eyes can result in uncomfortable and unsightly puffiness and irritation.

 If you wear waterproof mascara and eye liner, use an eye make-up remover specifically designed for this.  Regular eye make-up removers may result in the need for scrubbing the delicate eye area.  You also stand the chance of prematurely loosing some of your lashes.

 If you are wearing lash enhancements and wish to keep them in place, remove your eye make-up using non oil based make-up remover.  The oil based products can usually be identified by separated layers of oil/liquid when left standing for a few minutes.   

 Procedure:   Dampen and squeeze 2 cotton pads between the palms of clean hands.  Apply the product to the centre of each pad and place one over each closed eye.  Hold in place for 5 to 10 seconds (without rubbing), then in a gentle yet firm down ward and outward motion, simultaneously sweep the pads over the eyes.  If necessary,

turn the pads over and repeat the process.  You can use a cotton bud dampened with eye make-up remover to gently cleanse away stubborn traces of mascara and eye-liner from the lash line.

 Tip:  By using a damp cotton pad you prevent the pad soaking up excess amounts of make-up remover.  You can also save money by splitting your cotton pad in half.  Most good quality pads are made in layers.  Once dampened, these layers can be separated quite easily.    

 Face:   Facial cleansing preparations may be found in the following formulations: milks, lotions, creams, medicated, soap less and liquefying gels.  

 The use of soap as a cleanser on the face is not recommended as it can have a very harsh and drying effect.  Previously, I briefly mentioned that the pH of your facial skin can be affected by the use of incorrect products.  Soap is an alkaline with a pH of about 8.5 to 10.  This is a far cry from the mildly acidic nature of your facial skin.

 Procedure:  Apply cleanser to palms of your hands or finger tips.  Dot all over your neck, chin, cheeks, nose and forehead.  With flattened fingertips and beginning at the base of your neck, use alternating hand movements to move the product in an upward direction towards your jaw line from one side of your neck to the other.  Repeat this step.  It only takes a few seconds.

 The reason for this movement and for the movements I describe is (a) it prevents unnecessary dragging on the skin, and (b) stimulates blood flow in the direction of facial lymph nodes.  This assists with removal of waste products from your circulatory system.        

 From the neck, move onto your chin using small upward and outward circular movements with your middle and ring fingers (these have the least strength).  Don’t forget to include your lower and upper lip area.  Then move out towards your cheeks and sides of your face, gradually increasing the size of the circular movements.  With small circles, move to the corners of your nose, then incorporate the rest of your nose, over the bridge and up onto your forehead.  Follow with a couple of gentle circular movements around your eyes (follow socket bones), then continue in upward and outward circular movements from the centre of your forehead to your temples.

 Remove your chosen cleanser according to product instructions.  If using cotton pads, follow the same routine.

 Sounds complicated?  Trust me, once you have practised this a few times, you won’t need to think about it when you do it and it will become second nature.

Toning

Some people skip this important step as they believe it is not really necessary.  In fact, using a toner after cleansing is just as important as the other steps.

 Toning helps to remove any remaining traces of cleanser, but also helps to refine the skin’s texture by tightening the pores.  It refreshes your skin and prepares it for application of make-up and moisturizer.

 Some toners are astringent based and contain up to 20% alcohol.  These are suitable for oily skin types but need to be used with caution as they can have a very drying effect.   Overuse of astringents can also stimulate the skin’s pores to produce excess oil (sebum), therefore making an oily skin more oily!

 Procedure:  Follow product instructions.  These are usually as simple as damping onto cotton pads and applying in the same way as for cleansers (described above).  Alternatively, you can apply the toner directly to your hands and pat gently into your neck and face.

Exfoliation

Our skin is made up of several different layers, of which the outer layer is constantly being shed.  The technique for artificially speeding up this process is called ‘exfoliation’, thus making way for new skin.

 Comedones, more commonly referred to as blackheads, are clogged up pores which consist of oil secretions (sebum), dead skin cells and dirt.  Exfoliation helps to open the pores and loosen and remove blackheads.  This process should ideally be carried out once or twice a week as more often than this can result in making your skin raw and irritated.  Existing oily skin can also be over stimulated, encouraging the production of more oil (sebum) which can result in spotty outbreaks and more blackheads!  It is recommended that you gently exfoliate only once a week if prone to oily skin.

 Most exfoliants contain tiny granules which remove the build up of dead cells when rubbed against your skin.  Facial exfoliants differ from the products used for the rest of your body, in that the granules are much smaller.  Never attempt to use body exfoliants on your face as they are simply too coarse and harsh.

 Procedure:  Follow manufacturer’s instructions, however, most products require a large pea sized application to fingertips or facial cleansing brush.  Dab over wet skin onto your neck and face, avoiding the eye area at all costs!  Once again, follow the steps recommended for the cleansing procedure but using only gentle finger tip pressure.  Concentrate on the areas which appear flaky and pay particular attention the chin, corners and body of the nose and the forehead as these are the areas which are prone to blackheads. . 

Masks

Think you don’t have time for a applying a mask?  Think again.  Masks can be nourishing, soothing, deep cleansing and hydrating.  A luxuriating mask can be so easy to apply and can work its magic whilst you bathe, shave, wash your hair or brush your teeth.  A vast range of affordable masks are available to suit a variety of needs.  There are setting and non setting masks as well as masks which can be peeled off and those which can be simply rinsed off. 

 Ingredients such as fruit, plant, herb and sea extracts which are rich in vitamins, minerals and enzymes, penetrate deep into your skin to help cleanse, nourish and balance your skin’s pH.  Clay masks work by absorbing oil and dirt and stimulate your circulation which helps to improve skin colour.   These masks can have a dehydrating effect which should be avoided in dry and mature skins.  Some masks contain soothing and calming ingredients such as calamine, aloe vera and cucumber. 

 Whatever your choice of masks, 10 minutes once a week, can leave your skin feeling fresh and invigorated!

Moisturize, Moisturize, Moisturize

I cannot stress enough the importance of daily moisturizing!  In fact, if there are really only two steps you can fit into your daily routine, then I recommend cleansing and moisturizing.  Please do not ignore this important step as moisturizers mimic the natural secretions of the skin (sweat and sebum) helping to keep it soft and supple.  Even if you have oily skin, please do not be mistaken into thinking that you don’t need to moisturize.  This excess oil does not actually moisturize your skin, but rather blocks pores and acts as a trap for environmental dirt.

 Moisturizers protect the skin from external factors such as wind, extremes of temperature, central heating and air conditioning etc…, all of which have a very drying effect on your skin.  Some moisturizers contain SPF (Sun Protection Factor) which helps to protect your skin from the damaging and potentially harmful UV (ultra violet) rays of the sun.

 Moisturizers vary in the form of emulsions, light or heavy creams, gels and mousses.   Special preparations include products for the eyes and neck.  Remember that the delicate and sensitive eye area has fewer and smaller pores which are unable to absorb the moisture rich molecules designed for the rest of your face.  The neck area, although less sensitive, consists of very few underlying sebaceous glands to provide natural lubrication, hence the importance of paying attention to your neck as well as your face. 

 Night time moisturizers are more heavily based preparations.  Under the heading ‘Your Skin care Routine’, I mentioned that at night whilst asleep and at rest, these moisture rich products work at plumping out tired cells restoring your skin’s suppleness.  If you are on a tight budget and do not feel that you can afford a night time moisturizer, then be sure to apply your day time moisturizer before you go to bed.  At least you are moisturizing!

 Procedure:  This is simplicity in a jar or tube.  Apply the required amount to your fingertips and dab from the base of your neck and then up and onto your face….. Then pat in.  This is what I do and it only takes a few seconds.

One last thing, remember, that drinking plenty of water, eating a healthy and balanced diet and getting plenty of restful sleep, helps you to maintain a glowing and youthful skin.  With your skin taken care of, you are now ready to apply your choice of fabulous make-up.  Have fun!

Tracey Hamilton

Beauty Therapist, CIBTAC Diploma, MGPBT. 

Indigo Beauty Room