Have you heard of Rituals?  No?  Then why not?!

This very clever and most innovative of companies takes mineral makeup to the next lever.

It is a gentle formula opf minerals, without perfume and parabens, but with gemstones.  Yes, you read that correctly, gemstones!

I’ve previously mentioned an eyeshadow with sapphire in it, and this particular palette is enriched with amethyst.

But is there a point to it, or is it just a way of diversifying away from every other joe bloggs mineral brand that’s currently flooding the market?

I’d say that yes, it is a clever spin, but it’s not pointless, far from it.  I’m not convinced that my eyes have become firmer as Rituals claim, however I don’t really mind that, what I do agree with though, and love, is that the reflection in the mirror is like a soft focus photo.  It most definitely is a very useful product for face and cheeks, and visibly blurs the image in front of you.

This particular palette is a very pretty collection of pinks, chocolates, lattes and creams.  They all have shimmer, so its a ‘use sparingly’ on the face, and ‘buff well’ to avoid the over shine, but on the eyes, it takes on a whole new identity; layered, buffed on, contoured, you name it.

Very pretty indeed!

Sam Donald

www.SamDonald.com

Urban Decay Razor Sharp Ultra Definition Finishing Powder

This is what they say – “Be Facebook-ready and camera-perfect everyday, thanks to this high tech finishing powder by Urban Decay. Razor Sharp’s silky, micro fine powder fools the eyes with ‘optical blurring’, and miraculously seems to airbrush away skin’s imperfections. It’s a smooth, flawless, soft-focus finish that’s flattering under even the harshest of lights.”

This is what I say “I am a very happy artist”

This is a very very clever product.  Don’t ask me about the science and technology behind it, just trust me.  Its so so fine.  This is the icing sugar of the powder world, compared to the granulated sugar of the rest.  It seems to run around in the pot like water does, it’s that fine, and all but invisible to the naked eye, yet it really does deceive you and make you feel good about your face. 

I do have this in my kit and in my own makeup bag, but my one gripe is the dispensing mechanism.  I like the theory behind dabbing on a puff, and being able to carry loose powder in your handbag without powder explosion possibilities, but for personal use, it’s too difficult to get into the creases around noses and eyes, and from a pro point of view, you can’t keep it clean.  I now just unscrew the puff part, and use it like I would another loose powder, but I would say, that’s a bit of it that’s not necessary.  The product itself is strong enough to stand alone without the added extras.

Kit worthy?  Oh yes!

Sam Donald

www.SamDonald.com

If someone had told me 12 months ago (maybe even 2 months ago actually), that I would be singing the praises of a Tinted Moisturiser, I’d have told them to stop lying to me!

I’ve never ‘got’ the concept of tinted moisturiser.  To me, a moisturiser is a treatment product that is absorbed into your skin to balance it out.  A colour product adds colour to sit on top of your skin.  It seemed so very alien to want to put a coloured product onto your skin, that would then sink in, taking that colour with it.  Yuckiboo!

However, in the name of research, I am prepared to try most things out.  They get trialled on my own skin first, then taken out and tried on clients, to give a balanced view of how a product performs.

In my hand, I have a tube of Balm Shelter, by The Balm, which is changing the way I work with Tinted Moisturisers, and how I see them.

Its understandably, a sheer product, offering a really natural tint of colour.  It does offer a degree of moisturising capabilities, but I’ve found that the best way to use it, is to moisturise skin as normal, then gently apply this over the top.  I’ve found that it actually seems  to ‘lock in’ moisture, rather than apply it.   My skin certainly feels softer for longer, and my client feedback is saying the same.  Things like ‘a natural coverage that remains looking dewy and soft all day’.

It does have an SPF, though it is only 18.  For days when you know you’re going to get caught in the sun, I’d definitely recommend a stand alone sun-care product, but again, it doesn’t seem to alter the effect of the Balm Shelter on skin, it seems to add to it!

I would say that if you love Tinted Moisturisers anyway, then you’ll definitely love this.  If you’re like me, and can’t get beyond two products trying to be the same thing, then you might want to take a closer look at this.  For me, the term ‘tinted moisturiser’ isn’t right.  I would say, ‘complexion enhancer’ is better, as something like ‘sheer foundation’ makes most people run a mile, as traditionally, they just disappear off the face, but this doesn’t.  It just keeps your face and skin looking fresh and very natural, but for a very long time…

Sam Donald

www.SamDonald.com

In love with ‘Love Blush’ by Helen E Cosmetics

Helen E Cosmetics was founded by makeup artist Helen Elowe in 1999 and has been steadily growing since. 

I tried out the ‘Love Blush’ over a few days recently and have been really impressed with this product.  At £12.99 for 12g, it’s reasonably priced and you get a lot for your money.  Nicely packaged in a silver compact which feels expensive, the Love Blush is designed to “recreate the glow from that first flush of love”.  It’s a mid tone plummy pink which suits skin tones from the very pale to dark olive and has a satin finish which feels nice on the skin. 

The pan itself is quite large and there is a lot of product there.  Applied with a large blusher brush, it goes on like silk on the skin and feels lovely.   

Helen E cosmetics are available from www.Helen-e.com, some Debenhams department stores and from independent retailers.

Skin Smoother by Helen E

Helen E’s signature product is the skin smoother which was the first product Helen Elowe developed after becoming frustrated with the huge choice of cosmetics on the market and it’s designed as a ‘one colour suits all’ to cut out those expensive foundation mistakes.  It’s nicely packaged in a silver compact and feels creamy to the touch. 

I’ve always been a bit wary of one colour suits all products because although I’m by no means Caspar the Ghost pale, they always seem to make me look orange, so it was with some trepidation that I tried this out.  I was nicely surprised to find that it didn’t look orange at all and did really seem to blend in with my skin tone. 

The only thing I wasn’t too keen on is the coverage.  I think this would be more suited to those that like the feel of a tinted moisturiser on their skin or that like a light coverage.   

It’s a good product to have for those ‘no makeup’ days or when you want something on your skin but don’t want to have to go through the whole foundation routine.  You can apply this quickly with a sponge or your fingers and you’re good to go.  It’s also something handy to have at the office to reapply through the day.  It now comes in an oil free version too.

Rochelle O’Brien

www.rochelleobrien.com

This has been a cult product amongst makeup artists for years.  Formerly though, for those of us in the UK, we’ve had to buy it from the States or Canada, as it hasn’t been available to buy in the UK.  With that, you have hefty shipping costs, plus the added risk of customs charges.  Never ideal when you’re paying a considerable amount for a product.

Now though, the superstars at Cult Beauty have brought it to the UK, for everyone to buy.

But what makes Face Atelier foundation a ‘cult’ brand.  Its got allsorts of modern technology jammed into the little bottle.  From silicones and soft focus properties that make your skin look like it’s been airbrushed, and just blurs out those edges, crinkles and wrinkles.

However, does it do what it claims?  I think so!  I’ve been using it for a while now, on a variety of skin tones and types, and it really does do what you expect.  It’s perhaps not the best for oily skins, with the silicones, however, with a good mattifying primer, I really can’t see why a pro makeup artist would need to have anything else in their makeup bag.

And the bonus?  You can buy 2 extra shades, called zero plus and zero minus, which make an existing foundation either darker or lighter.  Perfect for custom blending, and I don’t know many makeup artists who don’t custom blend on a daily basis!

Definitely check it out, and while you’re there, have a look at the rest of the Cult Beauty website, it’s worth some time window shopping…!

Sam Donald

www.SamDonald.com

I don’t do mineral makeup.  It doesn’t sit nicely on my skin personally, and mostly, doesn’t look that great under flash photography.

I’ve tried every range there is, and it just doesn’t like my skin.  I don’t particularly feel that I’ve got large or open pores, but for some reason, mineral powder makeup just seems to sit in them and magnify them.  So then, when I was asked to try Clinique’s new Mineral Powder makeup, I was rather reluctant, imagining that I was going to leave the store with a deep pitted face that I don’t really have!

I grabbed a chance to speak to the counter manager about mineral makeup, and expressed my feelings on them, and that one needs to have a totally flawless face for it to sit nicely, but in her words, she said ‘we’re reinventing mineral makeup’ and that Clinique certainly aren’t doing what everyone else is.

For starters, yes, you can wear it on its own, and it does actually look very nice and smooth, although it is a light coverage, you do have to work at it to build it up.  However, Clinique is suggesting that you wear it over another foundation, as a sort of setting powder/extra layer/extra coverage all in one.

Personally, I love a heavier coverage.  I’m not as young as I was, and my skin isn’t as unmarked as it was.  I wear makeup and have no problem showing that I do, not, I hasten to add, that I look like I have it trowelled on thick, just that it’s not invisible!

I love how this is feeling and looking.  I can get away with a very light layer of foundation, I’ve tried this over 3 different clinique foundations, I’ve used it over airbrush foundation, tinted moisturiser and whilst exhibiting and working professionally in the last few days, over every other brand you can imagine!

The results are all fairly similar.  Over Clinique’s Superbalanced liquid foundation (the one they recommend you use it with), its a heavier, fuller coverage, over ‘even better’ foundation and superfit, it’s a little lighter.  Over airbrush and tinted moisturisers, its very sheer, yet pretty flawless.

So whilst the coverage is different, they all have a flawless finish.  It’s then upto you how you choose to use it.  Loaded on for an intense beauty photoshoot, or light and gentle for a walk to the shops.

Sam Donald

www.SamDonald.comc

This is a great product if you’re really pale like me, I often find that loose powders, even in translucent can make my foundation darker so I look like I have a really bad orange face!

This product helps to keep the foundation the colour it should be, and for once its not too dark for me! I was testing in Porcelain

www.lilylolo.co.uk

I would say it has good staying powder as good as Mac powder/Shu Umera powders and I will definately be buying again and maybe looking at their other products!

I have very sensitive skin and often get reactions but have had no adverse effects using this product!

Defo a regular for my make up bag especially as its a fraction of the Shu Umera!

Lynda Barber

by Beverley of Makeupology, London

Sam Donald

Never having been a fan of airbrushing, either on overphotoshopped portfolio pictures (what’s the point of that – doesn’t show your talent, it shows the photographer’s airbrush skills!), or on faces.

I’ve come across some pretty ropey products in the past and observed some apalling application techniques, so I’d not really investigated it all that far, not beyond the few ocassions when I’d seen it at work in salons, and cringed to myself at the patchy face and messed up hair.

I recently got my hands on a couple of bottles of the Airbase foundation from TheProMakeupShop.com and decided to have a play.

Now I’ve been using this without the compressor, just my regular favourite foundation brush, but rather than using the traditional method of foundation brush application, I’ve been buffing it into the skin with the very tips of the bristles, in quite a fast, random action.

Oh my word!  I’m in love!

It is stunning!  It really does airbrush your skin, but without making your skin look caked in makeup, infact, I used it on a client recently who really wanted her freckles to show, but did want the underskin to be smoothed out.  Bless her, she kept looking in the mirror at herself, she was that surprised at the look and finish of it, and that she really couldn’t feel it (this was a client who never wears makeup, so really does notice it when she’s wearing it!)

I’ve had plenty of opportunites over the last couple of weeks to use it on various different faces, skintones and skin types, and it’s getting a unanimous thumbs up, not just from me,  but also from the ladies I’ve been working on.  Their ages have ranged from 20 upto 60+ and all have been delighted with the results, and the feedback coming in to me from them is that it really does last very well (particularly over the top of a primer) and does withstand the tears of a wedding day!

For me, aswell as being a staple in my kit, it is now a firm favourite in my own makeup bag, and being a ripe old age of 35, I have one or two crinkles around the eyes, and I’m hereditary blessed with a patch of broken capiliaries on one cheek.  Gone!  both are erased, even the crinkles which are often there, particularly thoes under my eyes.  Okay, so they aren’t actually erased, that would be too good to be true, but they aren’t magnified, whcih a lot of products can do.

So bascially, I have been converted!  Something that rarely happens.  I’ve been involved in makeup and cosmetics for too many years now to be swayed by whim and fancy and what initially seemed hype, but I will hold my hands up and say that yes, I love this stuff!

Now to get my hands on a compressor to really go to town…!

Until I joined MAF I never used a base for my foundation. Then Smashbox Photo Finish Primer was recommended and I gave it a try. It goes on like silk and really does smooth out the skin, giving a lovely soft base for your foundation! I love the way it feels as you apply it, and it really does seem to fill in those little wrinkles. When the foundation goes on the top, it makes application smoother and gives a more even finish. I love it.

Peta Donkin